Vinul din Cluj

Cuvinte despre vinuri incercate, degustari si evenimente, calatorii si retete

Where’s your crown, King Riesling?


Huber is a brand name among Austrian winemakers, and Riesling, along with Gruner Veltliner are the grapes of choice in Traisental, its native wine region. So the average buyer shouldn’t be surprised that in an ordinary, rather grey-looking 10 -Euro bottle of white wine, are packed the knowledge and tradition of a family that has wine growing roots dating back as far as 200 years, as well as the enthusiasm and heart of a would-be football player. Markus Huber‘s story is very appealing (dreaming of becoming a professional football player, he eventually returned to his family’s trade, studied winemaking, set up a beautiful family and lives is life in the vineyard) and even more so because it is backed by vintage after vintage of prize-winning wines.

Traisental is one of Austria’s smallest wine regions in terms of vines surface, and its climate is influenced by three powerful neighbours: the warm and dry pannonian plains to the east, the cold and windy Alps to the west, and the mild and temperate Danube river nearby. This wide climate ranges, along with the stony and gravely soil, ensure that the wines reach delicate aromas, with a stiff acid backbone.

Their 2011 Riesling Traisental DAC  is coming from the vineyard hill top „Engelreich” (Angel’s kingdom -what a suggestive name!). With a conservative 12.7% alcohol level, it is backed by a powerful acidity of 6,6 g/l, while keeping in balance the residual sugars at 3,4 g/l (from the factsheet). The eye meets a delicate greenish color, bright and sparkling. The mineral notes emerge first from the glass -dry and cold stone, chalk- followed by lemon rind and jasmine blossoms. Only after a couple of swirls in the glass, some deep and captivating peach notes fill the air, along with a flowery scent like a garden in the rain, and a hint of thyme. The notes are very persistent, yet not becoming too heavy. Mouth-filling and refreshing on the palate, it has a tight, almost chewy structure of acidity and flavor. Upfront notes of lemon zest and apricots are spread nicely around the gums, finished with a bittery twist reminding of green olives.

After such a refreshing experience, why go with the flow and pair it with a fish dish or salad, and not try something bold: pasta with arrabiata sauce. The fruity flavors mach extremely well with the meaty and spicy texture of the sauce, while the acidity helps keep in balance the greasiness.

As a side remark, I love the simple, flawless and minimalistic design of the website, as well as the charming smiles of Markus’ daughters.

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