I have opened this bottle one late night, watching a new episode of Persons of Interest, and needing something easygoing but with a bit of pungency, to go along with the postmodern theme of the series. I was expecting a typical „new-world” eclectic mixture of round flavors, some harsh tannins, pumped-up acidity and some spicy finishing notes, that so many inexpensive European wines seem to adopt lately.
Instead,from the first sips, this wine has sent me immediately in a casino from Las Vegas, with flashy costumes, vulgar displays of jewelry and tough talk. Just like Joe Pesci in his roles form Mob movies, this Chianti is loud, has a thick accent, is jumpy and inconsistent, has superb aromas but absolutely no structure, doesn’t deliver, but in the end it’s a lovable character that shouts: „Hey, cousin Vinny!”.
Cantine di Ora, this Chianti DOCG from 2011 is a blend of Sangiovese, Cannaiolo and
Trebbiano. It has a very gentle level of alcohol – 12.5%, and yet it is somehow volatile even when served at lower temperatures. Cherries and rosehip flavors jump straight out of the glass after the first swirls, along with some cheeky notes of ketchup. In the mouth it has an uneven feeling, with the acidity overpowering the fruit notes, some smoked wood appearing out of nowhere; the texture is just above the „light” limit, and the finish is rather short and dull.
If I were to compare it to a meal, it would be a simple pepperoni and cheese pizza, slightly burned on the bottom, undercooked on top, and with a strange topping -let’s say cumin powder. Still, it is a very likeable and enjoyable wine, without any depths and subtleties, rather straightforward and plain like a late 90s Mob movie.