Cuvinte despre vinuri incercate, degustari si evenimente, calatorii si retete
The third day of the #DWCC debuted with one of the most interesting workshops: „Elements of flavour: soil„. We discussed the exciting case study on Mount Etna wineries, that manage to thrive in a very hostile climate. The influence of volcano in changing the local environment: soil composition, sulfur emissions, lava flows, shape of the terraces. The vines and wine-growing techniques are constantly adapting to keep pace with this changing terroir.
Food and wine pairing was the next session, featuring a Basque food blogger, and a Catalan sommelier. The challenge was to find wine associations to five different food flavors and textures, presented in the shape of pearls. Two wines very opposed were presented, to add some spice to the challenge: Cava – Mont Ferran oldest Cava house DO Alella ; Jerez fino. Everyone agreed that texture is more important than flavor for food pairing.
Tim Hanni opened one of the following sessions , dedicated to the subjectivity of flavor : „There is nothing objective but the object itself.” Below are some notes and thoughts taken during the session.
Flavor is a combination of taste, smell, sight and touch. Critical thinking doesn’t always apply to wine.
Descriptive language has not been keeping up with the perception of flavor. Sweet wines are the victims of miscomunication and inaccurate language.
Myvinotype.com -sensory sensitivity, education, life experiences, culture, personal opinions.
The delusion of objectivity creates barriers to understanding -defense mechanisms- lack of acceptance of contrary evidence.
The wine industry is like a shoe salesman who doesn’t know that people have different sized feet! „Educating the consumer” is like saying their feet are ” not trained enough”.
2011 was one of the best vintages ever for Porto wines, and we had the opportunity to sample then some of the wines from this vintage.
2011 Vintage Port,from Vinha Sogrape:
-founded in 1942, with several brands: Offley, Ferreira, Sandeman. Luis Sottomayor, 3 times winemaker of the year in Portugal.
Only exceptional years are declared vintages, average of 3/decade. and 2011 is one of the best vintage. Best wines come from Cima Corgo sub-region of Douro -best balance. Only native Portugese grapes. Vinified at Quinta do Seixo winery, with maceration and fermentation in stone lagares . Stored for 1.5 years in large oak vats in the cellars of Villa Nova de Gaia. Careful selection of vats for final blending, according to house style. 2011 is an ideal year for a vintage, with good balance and very long ageing potential.
Offley Porto Boa Vista 2011: very dark, itense flowery and bitter aromas, classic and easy-drinking. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz.
Ferreira 2011: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Sousau. More balsamic aromas, cedar, spicy.
Sandeman 2011: TN, TF, TR, Tinto Cao, Sousau. Very robust and powerful, massive body, almost chewy.
The Grand tasting session, featuring Julia Harding and Jose Vuillamouz (co-authors of Wine Grapes), focused on a hot topic: native Iberian varieties, provided by the organization Wine Mosaic.
Iberian varieties -a separate stream of domestication ? Recent researches -Cabernet Franc is an old Iberian grape. Phyloxera – responsible for the variety reduction, and the lack of variations between clones. There is a national program to document and save old varieties, and to prevent mislabeling. Currently only 8 varieties make for 90% of the planted surface in Spain.
Casal Figuiera 2012, Antonio Vital. Native on the Atlantic coast, present only in one vineyard,50 years old. Wine is fermented and aged in large very old casks. Discreet aromas, but good consistency on the palate, and lively finish.
Malhadinha Nova, Peceguina Antao Vaz 2012. Only produced in limited amounts in good years, in Alentejo. Ripe peach and orange marmalade aromas, with medium acidity.
Manz, Dona Fatima Jampal, 2012. Only present as single variety in one vineyard in the world, almost extinct due to low yields. Light coloured, flavours reminding of pear and cream of lemon, with a sour finish.
Bodegas Ponce, El Reto 2012, Manchuela. The only white grape in a red wine region -about 15 ha. Fermented in new French oak, flavours of sweet corn, ripe apples.
Bodegas Valdemar, Inspiration Tempranillo Blanco 2011. A color mutation from Tempranillo, in 1988, on a plant in Rioja. Quite oxidative flavours, toasty and creamy.
Vina Ijalba, Maturana Blanca 2011. Old native grape of Rioja, rescued in 2002, only 3 ha available. Juicy, fresh and lively, with high acidity.
Campolargo Alvarelhao, 2012. Used as table wine in Portugal, dramatically reduced now. Light, fruity, high tannin, with traces of oak from the maturation.
Talai Berri, Txakoli Tinto 2012. Native basque variety. Related to Cabernet Franc (Hondarribi Beltza) and Gros Cabernet. Grassy and peppery, good body and persistence.
4 Kilos, single vineyard Callet, Vino dela Tierra Mallorca. Indigenous and only found on Mallorca. Really soft and feminine, mild tannins, balanced, nutty aftertaste.
Quinta da Revolta, Touriga Femea 2011, recently thought extinct, only available as a varietal in a single winery. Soft and jammy, dense and tough, made in a traditional Douro way, high alcohol and persistent finish.
At the end of the sessions, it was very exciting to be announced the destination of the next year’s edition of DWCC: Montreux, Switzerland!!!
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