Cuvinte despre vinuri incercate, degustari si evenimente, calatorii si retete
Following the famed display of the many faces of Pinot Noir, which occured last month, I was stuck with the lingering taste of the most remarcable of the wines tasted that evening. I can’t say it was my absolte favourite (that title goes to the sparkling Brut Rose), but it had a certain appeal that made it difficult to forget. Here is another review of that tasting.
To refresh the readers’ memory, EM Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 is the fourth vintage of Pinot Noir grapes of “Edoardo Miroglio” Winery which is located in Elenovo, Bulgaria, where they grow a range of varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Mavrud and Pinot Noir. Although this is far from being the ideal terroir for this particularly difficult grape, the Italian investor had the ambition of turning this winery into the best spot for Pinot Noir in Europe outside Burgundy.
A difficult challenge, to say the least, and the results will be visible in more than 10 years from now. Still, it did not take very long for their wines to be noticed; at the „Mondial du Pinot Noir” contest taking place in Switzerlad, the 2006 vintage scored some nice points, competing with more that 1100 samples of Pinot Noir from France, Germany, Austria, USA, etc.
This particular 2007 vintage is aged for 12 to 15 months in barrel, and has a further 6 months
ageing in bottle before being released. The novelty factor of the 2007 vintage is the introduction of the “Nova Zagora” PDO (Protected Designation of Origin, by Bulgarian standards) on the label. This PDO designation in quite new, coming into existence on January 26th 2007 and appears to suit the needs of Edoardo Miroglio, since it has few restrictions.
A light to medium body, red-berry-rich Pinot Noir, that hints towards Burgundy balance more than towards New-World fruitiness. Impressive in its balance of body and acidity, with light tannins and a long finish. After a good 3-hour aeration, the wine smells of autumn forest floor, wet earth, and exotic woods and spices. The raspberry and cranberry notes are hidden under a woody curtain, thin but enveloping. In the mouth the wine has a velvety texture, still a bit coarse, with black currant and blackberry flavors, that change gradually into leathery and dark earthy notes. The finish is medium, bringing some lavender and bay notes.
All in all, it is an elegant and classy Pinot Noir, well aged, still having a few years ahead -I would give it another year or two to reach its best shape. Due to its balanced acidity and fine tannins, it can suit a wide range of dishes, from flavorful fingerfoods like anchovies or black olive tapenade, to some juicy steaks or aged cheeses.